WWWIP 2018 Week 2: Ali Mahou
Hi again! I'm happy to say that I've progressed a lot with my costume this week! All of my drafting is done and I’ve been sewing diligently to get the majority of the clothing aspects completed. I still have more to go this week, but I can report that Runaan is well on his way!
Some advice for pattern making:
- Paper weights are your friends! They keep your vellum in place to eliminate piercing it with pins (I don’t recommend using a cat, but he loves to “help”)
- Use transparent rulers for measurements and adding seam allowance
- Purchase some “fitting shell patterns” or “fit patterns” to alter if you do not have a professional block set. These are pattern packs containing basic pattern shapes to be used as blocks (templates) for drafting and altering. Simplicity has a whole line of these fit patterns called “Amazing Fit” in all kinds of styles.
Bias tape and corners:
Runaan’s outfit involves a lot of bias tape and quite a few corners. I learned how to sew from my professional seamstress mother and due to this, I've picked up on lots of fun tips and tricks over the years. My absolute favourite is a quilter's technique for using double fold bias tape on sharp outer corners (inner corners are done differently). Check out the quick progress gifs below for the tip! *I recommend using pins or clips to help hold your bias tape in place, I just tend to ignore that step, as I have a lot of experience with bias tape.
First off, I’m just pointing out my initial sewing path for you with a fabric pencil!
Next, sew along the path I noted with my pencil. Make sure your double fold bias tape is unfolded/opened correctly. Sew along the inner fold closest to the edge (as is usual for proper bias tape application) but when you hit the corner, instead of manually folding the tape to create a corner, turn the garment to line your needle up with the corner and sew off the edge.
This is the most satisfying step in my opinion. Line your finger up with the stitch line (that you created by sewing off the edge) and rotate the bias tape so that it lines up with the adjacent edge of the corner.
Now, sew the bias tape down normally on the side adjacent to your first side, starting from the very edge, as demonstrated.
Lastly fold and flip the bias tape to reveal your perfect corner! You can proceed to top stitch the bias tape down or hand slipstitch or whipstitch it down on the backside to make your bias tape look cleaner with no threads seen from the front..
Next week I’ll have even more sewing content for you and perhaps even a quick try-on test!
Until then, if you want an incredible beginner’s guide to sewing for cosplay, Kamui Cosplay has written the perfect book for you! Check out “The Book of Cosplay Sewing” by Kamui Cosplay on ardawigscanada.ca!
- Mahou ☆