WWWIP Week 3: Kyle
For week three I made the second pattern design using my first as a basis and then made copies of both patterns to fit the measurements of the other models. This week I plan to finish the mockups and have fittings to determine if the patterns require any adjustments or changes in design. We will also have a stream for fabric dyeing this evening, be sure to check it out!
For a quick how-to, I'd like to show you how I made a folding collar with an even top for the three space cadets.
First, draw yourself a reference box big enough to make half of your pattern on. I suggest giving yourself enough space to make your pattern larger than you think you need. Draw a horizontal line at the halfway point. This will be the height line for your collar. Determine how tall you want your collar to be and draw a second horizontal line at that distance from your first line.
Next, take the measurement of the middle back to top shoulder line seam of your jacket. Then measure the remaining neck seam from top shoulder to front.
Make a mark on your lower line for the first measurement. Using a flexible ruler, make a curve shape that stays straight to the first measurement mark and then curve down in an even arch for the second measurement. Have a friend hold the ruler in place as you draw a line for your curve. If you are by yourself, you can hold the ruler up against your arm for an initial line and clean it up afterward.
Draw a vertical line connecting the end of your curve to your middle line. Cut out your box and fold it in half along the middle line. While folded, cut along your drawn lines.
You can cut one point slightly shorter if you want your collar to have a less dramatic point on the flap. Be sure to make a mockup of your garment with your collar pattern to make sure it lines up properly. If you need to change the pattern's length or curve, you can tape scraps to your existing pattern to alter it until you have the desired shape. And be sure to write any notes or markings that can help you to reuse the pattern later on.